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KMID : 0604520050310040349
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2005 Volume.31 No. 4 p.349 ~ p.357
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Development of New Natural Antioxidants for Cosmeceuticals
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Yoo Ik-Dong
Kim Jong-Pyung
Kim Won-Gon
Yoon Bong-Sik
Yoo In-Ja
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Abstract
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New antioxidative substances for cosmeceuticals were screened from natural resources such as microbial metabolites, mushrooms, and medicinal plants. Four antioxidants were isolated from the fungal metabolite of Eupenicillium shearii and their structures were determined to be new phenolic compounds. The compounds were designated as melanocins A, B, C, and D. Melanocins A{sim}D exhibited free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and superoxide with EC_{50} values of 21{sim}94;and;7{sim}84{mu}M, respectively, which were stronger activity than those of {alpha}-tocopherol and BHA. Melanocin A showed anti-wrinkle effects on the UV-irrated hairless mouse skin. A novel hispidin antioxidative compound designated as inoscavin A was isolated from the fruiting body of the mushroom, Inonotus xeranticus. Inoscavin A scavenged superoxide radical with EC_{50} values of 0.03{mu}g/mL, and inhibited rat liver microsomal lipid peroxidation with EC_{50} values of 0.3{mu}g/mL. Benzastatins A{sim}G, the novel antioxidants isolated from the culture of Streptomyces nitrosporeus showed potent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity with EC_{50} values of 3{sim}30{mu}M. A cyclopentene compound with strong hypopigmentary effect was isolated from the fungal metabolite of Penicillium sp. and identifed as terrein. Terrein significantly reduced melanin levels in a melanomacyte cell line, Mel-Ab. It showed 10 times stronger activity than kojic acid, but exhibited no cytotoxic effect even in 100{mu}M. It was suggested that terrein reduced melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production by MITF down-regulation.
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KEYWORD
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cosmeceuticals, antioxidants, inoscavin A, benzastatin, terrein, melanocin
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